With the disaffected air of a couture-lovin’ bag lady, a symphony of psychosis played out on the fall 2015 Maison Margiela runway. For John Galliano who made his RTW debut for the house with this collection, it seems that a home run has been hit and very very far out of the park. Galliano’s grand sense of glamour and high-drama hijinks that fan the flames of fashion meshed seamlessly with Maison Margiela’s quiet, contemplative undone-ness, a pure breed of conceptual garments that endlessly twist and turn themselves into trompe l’oeil feats of fabulousness. The house codes are spoken in another language, if you will, and you are either fluent or you are not.
For those of us that find beauty in the ugly, poetry in the distressed and worth in the un-precious, there is a sumptuousness in La Maison that it’s devotees devour season after season. As Margiela’s half-baked beauties half-skulked down the runway, twitching and clutching crinkled leather totes resembling crumpled paper sacs or with arms anxiously crossed in consternation, covered in neon orange gloves that appear to be nothing more than a common dishwashing glove, Galliano assured us all that the traditions will be respected, revived and rejuvenated.
Low-heeled, ladylike Mary-Janes with outsize ankle-straps look 10 sizes too large. Upon closer inspection, a clever flesh-toned elastic strap hugs the leg ensuring that these mixed-up MJ’s stay put. Pair after pair was a clever combination of smooth box leather, glitter, lucite, vinyl and patent. Bows fashioned from signature whitewashed cotton ribbon adorned heels.
Madness appeared in many ways throughout the collection, from the expertly applied psychotic makeup (that’s actually a thing) to the mismatched, chopped-up wigs popping out of makeshift hats, wig caps and jewel-adorned swim caps. And lets not forget the faux-fur mules. Shaggy, high-heel furry feet scurried on the catwalk dragging these luscious faux-locks carelessly along. The bedroom slipper gone fabulously awry.
Galliano’s stylized soup worked seamlessly, celebrating the best of both designers, marrying his high with Margiela’s low. And honestly, this is the real hi-low right here. Margiela himself gave life to the concept and gave this beautiful monster, cloven-hoof and all, a reason for being. Let’s trust that Mr. Galliano will love and nourish her as only his genius can, for she is now in his capable hands.